Links, luxury nestled in New Zealand landscape
Like most religions, golf is given to ritual and pilgrimages to places of special significance. Mention that you're going to Kauri Cliffs and Cape Kidnappers and a misty look comes into the eyes of those who've played these two remarkable courses perched above the Pacific Ocean at different ends of New Zealand's North Island.
Tell them you are
going to stay at the Lodge at Kauri Cliffs or the Farm at Cape
Kidnappers and even non-golfers who know the luxury circuit sigh
longingly. Clearly these are no golf-geek hangouts where people wander
about in plastic pants and tams.
Both are owned by New York hedge fund guru Julian Robertson.
"My Dad is a geography
nut," says Jay Robertson, who manages The Farm at Cape Kidnappers. "He
saw New Zealand as the most geographically diverse place in the world so
we spent a year living here in the 1970s.
"Back when the U.S.
dollar was strong against the New Zealand dollar, Dad bought a
6,000-acre sheep and cattle farm up in the Northland in 1995. He didn't
know what to do with it until a golf designer said he could create a
course without moving any dirt. So we got into the golfing business.
"Then my Mom said we
should do a farm stay. Even though he didn't want to be Conrad Hilton,
she prevailed and now the lodges are the better part of the business."
The Lodge at Kauri
Cliffs looks rather like a South Hampton mansion, with gabled windows
and wide verandas overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Last year it was voted
as one of New Zealand's best resorts and one of the top 20 resorts in
the world by readers of Andrew Harper's Hideaway Report.
Conceived by Virginia
Fisher, New Zealand lodge designer extraordinaire, there are 22
spacious suites in 11 cottages, each with private porches and open
fireplaces, nestled on the edge of a native forest overlooking the ocean
and golf course.
"Kauri Cliffs lodge
has great character. It feels like it could be your beach house," says
David Hisco, an Australian banker who is a regular guest. "I've stayed
in a lot of fancy hotels in the world and the service and accommodation
is as good as anywhere, which is a pleasant surprise in the north of New
Zealand."
David Harman designed
the par 72 course to blend in with the dramatic landscape. It was voted
last year in the top 100 courses in the world by Golf Magazine. Six holes are played alongside cliffs, while 15 holes have views of the ocean, dotted with picturesque islands.
Guests can also swim
or fish at one of three private beaches, go kayaking, play tennis, hike
and even try boar or possum hunting on the property, not to mention
indulging in treatments at the new spa.
Robertson's other
masterpiece, The Farm at Cape Kidnappers, opened in November last year
to accompany the golf course, which is designed on a 2,428-hectare sheep
and cattle property. Built to resemble a cluster of farm buildings with
a red silo at its centre, the Farm is set back on a ridge overlooking
the course.
Leather armchairs,
cowhide rugs over wooden floors, antler chandeliers, large stone
fireplaces, and bold local artwork grace the spacious living and dining
areas. An attractive loggia with retractable doors opens onto the lawns
in the summer months. The French-inspired cuisine, featuring local
seafood, lamb and venison, is fresh and sophisticated. High-ceilinged
suites in neutral tones, with black and white photos and curvilinear
tractor seats against the walls, each have private decks that drink up
the views.
"Serendipity played a
huge role in the development of Cape Kidnappers," says Robertson."My
father flew out from New York to Oregon to play at Pacific Dunes but it
was booked out so they switched him to Bandon Dunes, which is designed
by Tom Doak. Initially he was furious but afterwards he said it was the
most fun round he'd ever played and he changed his golf designer for
Cape Kidnappers to Tom Doak."
Golf Magazine ranks
the course number 41 in the world and it is easy to see why. Cape
Kidnappers straddles massive chalk cliffs and every hole has a view of
Hawke's Bay. The land leans toward the sea as a series of ridges jutting
toward the rim of the earth.
"Like a lot of links
courses there is a real sense of the contours of the landscape. In the
case of Cape Kidnappers, it is the lime green folds of a sheep farm,"
says George Burr, an American lawyer.
"What's distinctive is
that you get to the edge of the course and peer over cliffs. It takes
your breath away. On the 6th and 15th holes, you have to navigate across
a ravine to reach the greens. Miss and your ball will plunge into the
ocean 200 metres below."
Guests also enjoy the
spa and pool and can visit the world's largest mainland-based gannet
colony as well as a spectacular Maori pa (fortress site) right
on the property. Te Awa and Craggy Range wineries in the Hawke's Bay
region and the Art Deco town of Napier offer delights farther afield.
So do golfers have a preference between the two?
"These two courses are
the best I've ever played," says John Estes, an American lawyer.
"Nothing is rushed. There are no people crawling up behind you. The only
pressure you feel is your own ability to play golf.''
"People who love their
golf simply have to play them both," says Hisco. "It's a bit like your
children. You can't choose between them."
Susan Gough Henly is a freelance writer based in Melbourne, Australia. Her visit was subsidized by The Farm at Cape Kidnappers.
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